Reading some of the reactions of students to some of the food items we used in the bento project was very instructive for me. The negative reactions to some foods were not entirely unexpected, for example, the preserved sardines, complete with heads and eyes, and the konbu (seaweed), tasting fishy like the sea. But what surprised me were some of the reactions to the particular cucumber we used. I had told the class that this was a special cucumber called a Japanese cucumber and, when I balked at the price, Andrea had insisted that no other cucumber would pass muster with her students from Japan. They would have known the difference between a Japanese Cucumber, a Chinese Cucumber, and an English Cucumber. The specific qualities of this cucumber are a thin skin without a bitter taste, few seeds, and an exceptional crunchiness, all qualities I personally find to be absolutely delightful. I was somewhat taken aback, therefore, to discover that a number of my students found it to be unsettling—“unlike any cucumber” they have ever tasted. The Japanese students were not the only discriminating ones! The humble cucumber proved to be a food that could pose the shock of the unfamiliar, a cultural boundary not marked only by its name but by a deeper more visceral response, not so much registered in terms of its taste as in its textural qualities. This raises a question for us about how deeply engrained our culturally conditioned responses to food can be? How is it that a flavor or even a more subtle quality such as texture can be so highly prized by some and experienced as unpleasant or even repugnant by others? I am reminded of Nigel Slater’s account of his family’s first attempt at preparing spaghetti, still an exotic food in 1960s England, and their emphatic rejection of the parmesan cheese they had been instructed to sprinkle on top because they decided that it “tasted like sick?” As we learned from Nadia Seremetakis, culture is not just “in the head” but it is embodied through all the senses.
Friday, April 25, 2008
A Cuke Is a Cuke?
Reading some of the reactions of students to some of the food items we used in the bento project was very instructive for me. The negative reactions to some foods were not entirely unexpected, for example, the preserved sardines, complete with heads and eyes, and the konbu (seaweed), tasting fishy like the sea. But what surprised me were some of the reactions to the particular cucumber we used. I had told the class that this was a special cucumber called a Japanese cucumber and, when I balked at the price, Andrea had insisted that no other cucumber would pass muster with her students from Japan. They would have known the difference between a Japanese Cucumber, a Chinese Cucumber, and an English Cucumber. The specific qualities of this cucumber are a thin skin without a bitter taste, few seeds, and an exceptional crunchiness, all qualities I personally find to be absolutely delightful. I was somewhat taken aback, therefore, to discover that a number of my students found it to be unsettling—“unlike any cucumber” they have ever tasted. The Japanese students were not the only discriminating ones! The humble cucumber proved to be a food that could pose the shock of the unfamiliar, a cultural boundary not marked only by its name but by a deeper more visceral response, not so much registered in terms of its taste as in its textural qualities. This raises a question for us about how deeply engrained our culturally conditioned responses to food can be? How is it that a flavor or even a more subtle quality such as texture can be so highly prized by some and experienced as unpleasant or even repugnant by others? I am reminded of Nigel Slater’s account of his family’s first attempt at preparing spaghetti, still an exotic food in 1960s England, and their emphatic rejection of the parmesan cheese they had been instructed to sprinkle on top because they decided that it “tasted like sick?” As we learned from Nadia Seremetakis, culture is not just “in the head” but it is embodied through all the senses.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
You Are What You Drink?
(photo borrowed from http://www.pachd.com/free-images/food-images/)
Earlier this week Chris Matthews, host of Hardball, promoted the theory that Barack Obama's request for orange juice instead of the coffee offered him in an Indiana diner indicates his inability to connect with "regular people"--that is, anyone who is not African American or a person with a university degree. The recurring talking point here (which arrived quickly on the heels of media pundits impugning his ability at bowling) is Obama's "arrogance." I had no idea drinking orange juice was arrogant! I happen to drink both juice and coffee, even though I do happen to have a college degree. Now I can't really tell whether I am arrogant or just a regular person or both in oscillation depending on what I have been drinking most recently.
What we see in this example is an active production of constructions of class (arrogant people with college degrees versus the average joe with a cup of joe in his hand) where none had presumably existed before. As Molly suggested in our class previously, food is never just food, it becomes attached to a meaning that makes the intangible tangible. However the meaning of a thing may not in itself be stable but may be subject to contestations and social struggle. I doubt that orange juice will come to symbolize class-based arrogance for very long, much to the relief of Florida orange growers who have paid good money to promote the association of orange juice with the positive meanings of health and good nutrition. Can a presidential campaign be won or lost on the basis of a glass of one or a cup of the other?
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